Sunday, 26 June 2011

Be Scene And Not Heard

*drags soapbox out from under bed*
This is just a little reactionary diatribe for a sunny Sunday morning.

Some of you may have read one of my recent posts on FEAL all about Topshop's 'Psychobilly' collection for AW11. Note the quotation marks there - it is simply the name of the collection, a reference to the psychobilly, rockabilly inspirations behind the clothes. (In fact, when you break down the looks, the garments themselves are more individually inspired by recent catwalk designs - but the way they have been styled is distinctly psychobilly-esque). I have to say, I really like the clothes; they are retro and tough and generally cooler than a lot other high street offerings. 

Topshop 'Psychobilly' for AW11

However - and this is a big however - I take this collection for what it is; a mainstream fashion retail company's version of 'alternative' clothing. It may not be the bonafide genuine article, and the people who will wear it may or may not know the ins and outs of the psychobilly scene, but it is a fun trend that will be picked up by the fashion crowd and then discarded again within a matter of months. Such is life in this business. 

Now I have a weird perspective on this one - even though I work in fashion, it's safe to say that I'm definitely into more alternative style, music and activities than some of my colleagues. I have a lot of rockabilly running through my veins, definite punk days, and a generally retro approach to fashion. I admire all things contemporary, but I get more inspired by icons gone by. 
Bettie Page: Queen of the Pin Ups, icon to the alternative masses
Yours truly in full rockabilly mode...

I'm not saying that as a badge of pride, but because I just appreciate that everyone is different and that no-one has the right to pass judgements on another solely based on their clothing or music taste. 
The Meteors: modern psychobilly at its finest.
So when the inevitable slew of comments from disgruntled psychobilly scenesters sprung up on the FEAL post, I wanted to tear my hair out with frustration. 'Oh, Topshop, what do they know about Psychobilly' 'This isn't real' and 'come to a psychobilly gig, see how you fit in' they sneered. All posted anonymously, of course, because their brains are obviously so full of knowledge about what it means to be alternative that they don't have space to learn how to sign in to Google. 
Internet trolls and the pissed off psychobilly commenters: very similar hair colours...

They were naturally missing the whole point of the post, and in turn highlighting a huge flaw in their modus operandi; what is the point of being part of a subculture, an alternative lifestyle, which celebrates all that is diverse and unique in this strange country, if you can't appreciate that everyone is different? People who are part of a 'scene' should focus their energies on having a good time with the friends they have decided they fit in with, rather than concentrating on keeping others out. It's really sad, and more than a little playground-ish, when people (of all ages) become elitist and prejudiced towards someone because maybe they don't have the exact right shoes or hair or tattoos.
Bang on The Door - if you didn't have one of these pencil cases at school, you were No-One.

My best friend and I, at the ripe old age of 23 and 24, were discussing the fact that we are so glad those teenage anxieties of desperately trying to be cool are far, far behind us (we are pretty decrepit now). Man, that crap was exhausting. Obsessing over every little detail of life, worrying about whether you'd fit in; it was stressful enough making sure you had the 'right' pencil case (Bang On The Door) or school shoes (Kickers), let alone the right outfit to be allowed to join the cool kids. It is so nice to not care anymore. If people want to be exclusive about their social group, and if it makes them feel better to deride others for not being as 'real' as them, then good luck to them. 
I'll just be outside, with people I have unconditional appreciation for, not giving a flying... 

GL

Thursday, 23 June 2011

A Meryl Streep Moment


Put the words 'Meryl Streep' and 'fashion' together, and the first thing that will spring into most people's heads is a little-known movie called The Devil Wears Prada. Heard of it? No, me neither...

However, I am of the firm belief that Meryl's finest fashion hour was not during her depiction of Miranda 'Anna Wintour' Priestley. The Streep is such a brilliant actress, who throws her heart and soul into every role, that sometimes her elegant good looks get, well, overlooked. She has her own sense of style and has not been defined by fashion over the years, choosing instead to dress the way she wants to; very classic, and very cool.

90s red carpet awesomeness
YIKES! In character as Anna W-sorry Miranda Priestly, proving that platinum blondes rule *brushes shoulders off*
Anyone who can make Maggie look this good is a winner in my book.
And finally...check out that yearbook photo. No-one looks this good in one of these pics - she's clearly not human.

So it surprises me that it has taken this long for Meryl the Actress to become Meryl the Muse to a cool young designer. Peter Jensen, step up to the plate. I have been a longtime fan of Mr Jensen's work, ever since I busted in to his fashion show waaaaay back in 2007. As far as I can remember, it was girls in cardigans, creepers and quiffs - he pretty much had my heart from that point on.

 Therefore I was pretty chuffed to see that Goddess Streep had been the inspiration for Jensen's unbelieveably awesome Resort 2012 lookbook. (Resort, btw, is the collection a designer puts out between their AW and SS collections, supposedly for the following summer's holiday clothes.A tradition from back in the olden days when women shopped once a season and planned their wardrobes in advance.) Some designers use it as a chance to reinvent some of their classics and get some more legwork out of them, others have a bit of fun with this collection - just like Mr Peter Jensen.

And lo, the Meryl Streep collection was born...
(All pics Peter Jensen Resort 2012)







I love the Cindy Sherman style atmosphere and set up of these pictures. They remind me of film stills, which in turn remind me of Sherman's famous Untitled Film Stills series - possibly my favourite photographic works to date - in which the photographer dressed up in various disguises and acted being an actress caught in a movie.
 Cindy Sherman: Untitled Film Stills

There is definitely a link between the moody, weird shots from Jensen's lookbook and these photos: it's a weird, yet enjoyable, Sherman/Jensen/Streep mash up.

Not to be outdone, I unwittingly created my own Sherman effect with these shots of my big head imposed on Jensen's model's body (confused yet? I know, that's fashion for you). 


The pics are from my post on Fashion Editor at Large, detailing my favourite looks from Resort 2012 collections. If you fancy a laugh. check it out - along with my Topshop Psychobilly post, and the unknown pleasures of trying to understand Donatella Versace as she explains the H&M collaboration in a video. Fashion: it's all good fun.

Images: IMDB, Style.com, Cindy Sherman

Monday, 20 June 2011

DAMN YOU, OPRAH WINFREY

...or whoever it was who succesfully bid for Marilyn Monroe's Seven Year Itch dress, which was auctioned off this weekend for the sum of 4.6 million shiny American dollars. Mere pocket money, naturally, for writers such as myself - I could have bought two of them, but someone distracted me during the bidding. Goshdarnit.


In all seriousness, how incredible would it be to actually own that dress? The Hollywood actress Debbie Reynolds (who I always get mixed up with Jessica Fletcher of Murder She Wrote - just don't tell her that) owned several Marilyn costumes, as well as Judy Garland's Wizard of Oz dress and Charlie Chaplin's bowler hat. That's just a small slice of the collection that she was attempting to have made into a musuem, but unfortunately no-one took her up on that, so she's selling it all off, piece by piece. I think that's genuinely quite sad. Stamp collecting, fossil collecting, even Louboutin collecting; in general, collecting just ain't that cool a hobby. However, a collection of costumes that have played a part in the most significant moments in movie history? That would have been something worth seeing. Silly old LA for not creating the Debbie Reynold's museum.

Debbie Reynolds: diamonds in the day and massive hair. When I grown up I wanna be JUST like her.

I just hope that the person who now owns Marilyn's dress treasures it and does something amazing with it - it's too special to be hidden away in some freezer cabinet. Or worn, for that matter - somehow, as much as I love the Winfrey, I just don't think it would be a good look for her. On the other hand, if she needs a platinum blonde to model it, Monroe-stylee, I would have no qualms with stepping up to the plate. Altruism is just my middle name...

Friday, 10 June 2011

Oh Kimono!

If there is one item of clothing that sends me into a fashion frenzy, it's a kimono robe. I know, not quite your everyday essential item - but I can't get enough of the ruddy things. There is something glamourous beyond words about swanning about the house in a vintage silk robe rather than Primark's finest flannel offering. In fact, those two words shouldn't even be allowed in the same sentence. But it's true, just as Dita von Teese eschews anything with an elasticated waist in favour of a cashmere dressing gown when she's at home, I too like something slinky, ideally with massive sleeves so I can waft around like a demented Miss Havisham. (It's a good look.)


This post was somewhat inspired by the previous ode to Pretty in Pink, in which Andie relaxes in an Oriental silk robe (it's peach, but I'll allow her some flexibility.) When she appears on screen, my little heart started beating faster, and it cemented my view that we could have hung out and compared kimono collections. More recently, in the swoon-licious Water for Elephants, I nearly leapt out of my seat in excitement - no, not when R-Patzz popped up, my boyfriend was covering my eyes at that point - when Reese Witherspoon casually threw a kimono over her spangly stage costume and it was if Jean Harlow was alive and well. I don't think the costume designers for Elephants were even trying to disguise the Harlow influence on Witherspoon's character, the similarities were too obvious - not that I'm complaining. 

Reese slinking about in her kimono
The original slink-ster, Jean 'Bombshell' Harlow (above and below) 

 For daywear, some modern style icons are fellow robe fans. Paloma Faith took an absolute battering from certain publications (The Daily Mail: for the last word in style advice) for her Glamour Awards look. I thought she looked flipping sensational. 


A devoted fan of Ashley Isham, her hairpiece 'creation' is Piers Atkinson's offering for Isham's AW11 collection, and I imagine the dress is bespoke from the designer. Either way, I think she looks magical, like a Western Geisha princess-type-woman. Clearly someone else who appreciates the power of a good kimono.

So, in my humble opinion, it's down with dressing gowns! Out with onesies! Let's raise the standard for stay-at-home wear and invest in one of these beautiful robes...

From La Senza, whose silk nightwear is definitely worth seeking out: 

Blossom robe, £30, La Senza



Silk 'Evita' robe, £80 La Senza (no doubt named after Evita Peron, a woman of such legendary style who I would imagine owned a kimono robe or two...)

From Agent Provocateur - when will I get over my AP crush?! Maybe when I can afford to actually shop there.



The Matinee kimono, £495, Agent Provocateur, which I would give a tooth for. Seriously.



The Barbaretta kimono gown, Agent Provocateur (at £1295, you probably should wear it as evening wear to justify the price)
 

Authentic vintage Japanese style from Rokit, £45





And a delightful embroidered number from Beyond Retro, who periodically have the most amazing selection in store. I'll race you there...

In short, kimonos are the way forward, with an inspiring selection from high street, high end and all good vintage retailers near you. Failing that, raid your Nan's wardrobe, she'll probably have one knocking around. One word of warning; don't even think about trying to wash up wearing one of these beauties, you'll get soggy sleeve syndrome. I can't even drink tea when I'm wearing mine. So no domestic duties...what a shame!

GL

Images: vintage postcard, Pattisonlife.com, Rex Features, retailers

Tuesday, 7 June 2011

Misfits Of The World Unite and Rejoice for PRETTY IN PINK.

The one where I get addicted to John Hughes movies and realise Andie Walsh and I really should have been friends. 


To date, my life has been somewhat defined by movie moments. In particular, my adolescent years were played out according to the teen movie that was flavour of the month at the time. They were an essential, unavoidable part of Noughties pop culture.

Time for a classic blogger's list...

10 Things I Hate About You: explained the appeal of the bad boy, and taught me the inimitable power of a public performance of a lip-synced love song. Undoubtedly one of Heath Ledger's greatest cinematic achievements. 


Never Been Kissed: confirmed my worst fears, as a fourteen year old, that there are just some girls who go through senior school without receiving the faintest flicker of male attention. Get the violins out...seriously though, I'm sure my train tracks, Posh Spice haircut, and tendency to match my eyeshadow to the colour of my jumper had nothing to do with my lack of allure.

American Pie: taught me more about sex than I would ever care to admit and also kicked off my obsession with 'the nerdy one'. Ah, Finchy...

She's All That: Remember when Freddie Prinze Jr was actually cool? Yeah, me neither, but I remember him being good in this classic tale of geeky girl transforming into a popular prom queen. It gave me a small slither of hope.

What I didn't realise, at the time, was that all of these movies made use of the perfect formula created by John Hughes in the 1980s. Hughes was THE MAN when it came to the teen-movie genre; in fact, it's safe to say he pretty much invented the nerdy girl/geeky guy meets cool dude/hot chick, falls in love, teaches their friends that differences don't matter and snog at the prom storyline that has been used countless times since. And boy, are we suckers for it. Every time.

Considering how crucial these kind of movies are to me, I couldn't quite believe that I had never got around to watching Pretty In Pink from 1986, arguably Hughes finest work and the film that introduced Molly Ringwald, in all her flame haired, geek chic glory, to the world.

Misfits of the world unite, this is a teen movie especially for YOU! 


Blane, Andie and The Duckman, showing off the latest 1986 fashwans.

Pretty in Pink tells the story of Andie, an outsider at school who has a single father, makes her own clothes and refuses to bow to peer pressure. Her bezzie mate is called Duckie, who is more rockabilly than Elvis himself, and who carries a burning torch for Andie - but she has fallen for 'richie' Blane, and it seems like their opposing tribes will never accept their romance. It's Romeo and Juliet, or Cinderella and Prince Charming (with Duckie as Buttons, natch) all over again. But Andie is no weeping wallflower, whispering her lovers name to the night. Oh No.

This girl is smart, tough, elegant, articulate, creative - and she has The Most Awesome Car In History. 
















Just take a second to appreciate the awesomeness.

She also shares my prediliction for kimonos, lace and general Chinoiserie:



















Also, she goes to her Saturday job at a record store called Trax in a cardigan that would make even the most die-hard Beyond Retro gal weep with envy:









Also, the girl who owns the record store has a pretty legendary hairstyle/punk bitch attitude:









Iona, (Annie Potts), demonstrating things you never new hairspray was capable of. 

I'm not going to give too much away about the story (although, tbh, it's not too tricky to work out from the teen movie formula) but when that prom moment rears it's head, it was heartwarming to witness another awkward teen girl checking out the designer garbs at a snooty store, before waltzing off home to create her own design. Pretty Woman, eat your heart out. 


And what a gown it is...


















Probably classed as a Man Repeller now, it is a prom dress of such epically cool construction, that I nearly wept with joy when this misfit for the masses, rocks up to the ball with her best friend on her arm. Because of course the Duckman is there to save the day. There is a special place in my heart for that one.

In short, I have decided that Andie and I were destined to be the closest of friends, if only I hadn't been a baby when the film was released, and if, er, she was actually real. But the thing is, she IS real - she represents anyone that has felt left out, not good enough, or just not 'normal' - when actually, that's pretty much everyone, whether they choose to admit it or not.

Now, I'm off to work my way through the rest of the John Hughes catalogue...

GL

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